The Adventure Climbing Toolkit

 

Over the decades, climbing has trended away from its mountaineering origins and toward shorter, more technical forms of the sport. Sport climbing and bouldering have soared in popularity, providing an abundance of routes on which the masses can test their vertical prowess with relatively little risk. The majority of modern climbers seek short approaches, high quality rock, abundant protection and an emphasis on difficulty.

Adventure climbing rarely offers these qualities, instead featuring routes which are long, remote, wandering, chossy, underprotected and often a wee bit scary. And yet, these routes continue to attract a small but devoted core of misfits, those who find joy in the wild and obscure. For folks with the right disposition, adventure climbing provides challenges which other disciplines lack – exploration, the thrill of the unknown, the development of self-sufficiency, a glimpse at true freedom and some light gardening.

Although the idea of moving gracefully over vast seas of rock is captivating, venturing into wild terrain changes the risk profile significantly. Adventure climbing at any grade is not to be taken lightly, and the consequences of even a minor accident can be serious. As time goes on, with proportionally fewer climbers developing the requisite skillset for adventurous terrain, and fewer mentors to help guide fledgling adventurers, it makes sense to share our knowledge in a more codified manner.

 

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Last weekend, we tried for a new route on Isolated Peak in the Mt Barney massif. Things did not go to plan and the attempt ended when @dan.jcox broke a hold, took a 15m screamer, clipped a ledge and smashed his ankle. Luckily, he had two VR aficionados on hand, and the party was able to work together to perform a simple vertical rescue to get off the face. Not willing to risk exacerbating any injuries by having Dan hobble out over loose and steep terrain, we called a helicopter evacuation. Although we were initially hesitant to rely on this form of rescue, the scans revealed fractures and ligament damage, proving our choice to be a good one. All things considered, the entire process went really smoothly but it certainly made us consider risk analysis and mitigation pretty seriously. The main takeaway was that whilst ledge falls can happen anywhere (have you been to Kangaroo Point?), the remoteness of the climb clearly changes the risk profile. With that in mind, here are the lessons learned: . On the positive side, we carried sufficient gear to perform vertical rescue and had the training to use it effectively. We didn’t think twice about leaving gear to facilitate safe rappels. We stayed calm and were actually in quite high spirits (see photo). We divided the tasks of gear organisation, rope management, patient care and rescue coordination according to our skills and resources and carried them out efficiently. . On things to improve, we carried a first aid kit almost as an afterthought. This should not be the case – it should be regarded as a necessity. We split the rope teams in order to balance experience levels, but again, it was almost by accident. The configuration of rope teams must be give thoughtful consideration. I won’t speak for Dan’s route finding, as I wasn’t in his shoes, but conservative, deliberate climbing is paramount in serious terrain. Additionally, it was difficult to signal the helo even at close range, so a hi-vis panel marker would be a worthy addition. . We all learned a lot that day and I hope that others can learn something from our experience too. There is no room for hubris, it could happen to anyone. Stay safe out there, folks!

A post shared by Zen and the Art of Climbing (@zenandtheartofclimbing) on

Following a recent incident on Mt Barney, I shared our lessons in risk analysis and mitigation in the Instagram post above. Our hope was that other climbers would learn from our experience, and I was later asked to expand on these lessons with a more comprehensive list of equipment, skills and considerations. I therefore present the Adventure Climbing Toolkit! I welcome any additions from the peanut gallery.

Climbing Equipment

As with any other climbing discipline, adventure climbing is best approached with specialised equipment. Here’s some of the kit I prefer for long routes:

Helmets
If you don’t wear a helmet whilst adventure climbing, it’s probably because you have no brain to protect in the first place.

north face leaning peak adventure climbing
Alex Mougenot on the North Face of Leaning Peak, Mt Barney

Half Ropes
Dual rope techniques are becoming something of a lost art in modern climbing, but I believe they are indispensable for adventurous routes. The benefits are manifold – reduced rope drag, extended rappel distances, the ability to belay two seconders simultaneously, and a measure of redundancy in the event of rope damage. See this article I wrote for Pinnacle Sports for a bit more detail.

Alternatively, some climbers choose to use a light tagline instead of a second rope. This cuts weight whilst allowing for longer rappels and gear hauls, but has limitations in the scope of lead climbing.

Extender Draws
Short quickdraws are good for sport climbing, but on long routes which tend to wander to find the line of least resistance, they’re about as desirable as Clive Palmer in a two-piece swimsuit. I carry a full rack of extenders numbering up to 15 depending on the route, but one can easily carry something like 10 and supplement the remainder with shorter variants.

Comfortable Shoes
At the risk of stating the obvious, aggressive and stiff shoes should be avoided at all costs. Aim to climb in something you can keep on your feet for multiple pitches, and keep in mind that you’ll be doing much more smearing than toe-hooking. You might even consider sizing them a little larger than usual, as I have found that the radiating heat of large slabs tends to make feet swollen and tender after a while. I run La Sportiva TC Pros, but La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Maestro’s and Five Ten Anasazi’s are also good options.

Rescue rack
On every long route, I carry a small rack of rescue equipment on the rear loop of my harness. One large carabiner should be able to accommodate everything you’ll need to ascend ropes, create pulley systems, and perform lower-outs or any number of other vertical rescue scenarios. The contents of this rack might include:

  • Medium-length Prussic
  • Texas Prussic or similar foot-loop cordage
  • Long sling
  • Spare carabiners/mallions/rap rings
  • Lightweight traction device such as Petzl Tibloc
  • Knife

Bailing Supplies
In addition to the rescue rack, some routes might require the creation or improvement of existing anchors. For example, many alpine rock routes have sun-bleached tat anchors from the Cretaceous Period, so it is in the interest of self-preservation and community service to remove these old anchors and replace them with newer cordage and focal points. To this end, consider bringing an extra serving of 7mm cord, with tape webbing being a cheaper but less durable option. It also pays to carry an extra rack of wires in order to facilitate safe retreats in a relatively inexpensive manner.

Approach Shoes
If the option to walk off exists, take it – many avoidable accidents occur on rappel, especially under time pressure and fatigue. A reliable pair of approach shoes can be somewhat cumbersome on the back of a harness, but it sure beats walking down in climbing shoes.

Safety Equipment

While the “light is right” mantra is very much in vogue, it pays to remember that some extra pieces of equipment can help avoid an epic or provide an extra safety buffer if needed. What you carry very much depends on your route location and your risk tolerance, but the following items should be considered:

First Aid Kit
There are very few interventions one can apply as a first aider, but those which you can perform might be vital in managing blood loss or pain. A small first aid kit needn’t weigh much, and although the contents might vary, here are a few suggestions:

  • Pain Relief – Panadol or Ibuprofen. Although your patient might wish for something stronger, you need them to remain alert.
  • Bandages – Useful for stopping haemorrhage, creating traction splints, making slings, strapping etc.
  • Athletic Tape – A proven cure-all. Also good for making gloves, or in a pinch, keeping wire-gates closed for use in rappel anchors
  • Emergency Blanket – Keeping a patient warm is paramount for preventing shock. Also might make that unplanned bivvy a little more cosy.
Heleena Comino on the crux pitch of Sunburnt Buttress, Mt Tibrogargan

Food and Water
In the early days of my adventure climbing career, I had a strange habit of neglecting to take enough water on ominously-named routes like Solar Slab and Sunburnt Buttress. I would then top out in a state of delirium, barely managing to walk, much less climb. Don’t do that.

Communication
If you’re on Tibrogargan, a fully-charged mobile phone will get service anywhere on the hill and you might find that the Emergency + app is a useful tool. Conversely, if you’re deep in the Tasmanian wilderness, a more powerful device is required. A satellite phone or two-way communication device such as a Garmin InReach should be carried in such terrain. Be aware that some insurance companies require you to carry such a device and failure to do so will void your policy. These devices require a subscription to the satellite network and careful attention to battery life. There is plenty of debate as to the reliance on such technology, but the current zeitgeist seems to agree that neglecting the means to affect an efficient rescue is largely unethical.

As well as communication with the outside world, a party needs to communicate internally. This can be problematic around corners, through roofs, or in windy/rainy/sleety/generally fucking terrible conditions. A pre-designated code of rope pulls can be employed (e.g. three hard tugs means “off belay” or whatever) but this system becomes difficult to use when overcome by large amounts of friction. Walkie Talkies are a solid alternative.

Signal Marker
In the event of a helicopter rescue, it helps to have a method for signalling the aircraft. A hi-vis panel marker or mirror can be of assistance.

Map/Topo
We’ve all been there, but it’s a bit daft to rely on theCrag or Mountain Project for topo information when signal is patchy and phone batteries are on death’s door. Carry a photocopied or hand-drawn topo, as well as a map. They don’t weigh much and could be the difference between benightment and afternoon beers at the pub.

Hopefully your topo is a bit more recent than this awesome piece of history from the Mike Meadows Collection

Headlamp
This trip report by Alex Mougenot from the East Face of Mt Barney should inform you as to why iPhones make for poor lighting devices.

Layers
Pack for the environment. A base layer, light fleece or small puffy jacket (or a combination thereof) can make windy belays more bearable and shiver bivvies less shivery.

Skills

It’s not much chop to have all the gear and no idea. The Adventure Climbing Toolkit requires equipment, but of equal importance is technical proficiency. The following skills should be mandatory for leaders and seconders in adventurous terrain:

Vertical Rescue
Just like flying an aircraft, playing the mandolin or engaging in covert espionage, vertical rescue can be demystified with appropriate training and practice. It really all comes down to weight transfers. If you want high quality training in this skill, excellent courses are running regularly, such as those offered by Pinnacle Sports or Climbing Guides Australia.

Navigation
A compass is just a fancy box that points towards magnetic resonance in the earth’s core. It is not Google Maps and won’t give you directions or reveal the locations of speed cameras. Again, practice makes perfect, but if you want some instruction in the art of map reading and compass use, I point you with a small amount of bias and some slight conflict of interest to the fine folks at Mt Barney Lodge (of which I am an employee and instructor).

dreadnought adventure climbing
Even a fucking wizard couldn’t make a bomber anchor on Pitch 1 of Dreadnought, Mt Tibrogargan, and I am not a wizard.

Proficiency with Traditional Protection
Adventure climbing requires a high level of familiarity with traditional gear in order to optimise rack selection and use. The arbitrary nature of weaknesses on long routes might require some additional skills and creativity in placement in order to ensure stability in multiple directions, security of unorthodox anchors and protection of seconders on traverses.

Aid Techniques
We all know that aid is a dirty word, but try climbing the headwall of Cerro Torre without it (go ahead, I’ll wait). Adventure climbing isn’t about gymnastic performances and gnarly whippers, it’s about efficiency and safety. Sometimes the best choice is to aid through hard or dangerous sections of climbing, and efficiency can only come with familiarity.

Ascending Ropes
In a similar vein, the quickest and most efficient manner to second a pitch may well be to jug the rope. Be prepared to do so, whether that means the dreaded grind of prussicing or by using handled ascenders if available. It can also be an excellent method for regaining the rock after falling under the void of an overhang, or to perform a leader rescue. At the risk of becoming repetitive, practice before you go.

Bailing
Don’t be too proud to bail, and don’t be too dumb to leave enough gear to do it safely. Set turn-around times and carry extra equipment to make it happen. Be aware of potential escape routes, whether on the face or on approach.

We bailed twice on the 1985 Route on La Esfinge, Peru before finally getting the send

Weather Appreciation
I’ve noticed that some climbers like to browse different meteorological websites to “shop around” for the forecast which appeals to them most. Others have what they call the AWGS or “All Weather Go Strategy”. Whichever roost you happen to perch in, all adventure climbers can benefit from a basic appreciation of weather patterns for the purpose of field observations. I wrote a thing about this that nobody ever read, but for what it’s worth, you can find it here. 

rock garden adventure climbing
Dan Peatey on the old school routefinding horrorshow Rock Garden, Mt Tibrogargan

Routefinding
For gym rats and sport bunnies, routefinding is the most arcane of all the adventure climbing skills. If someone could go up and tick each hold, that would be ace. But seriously, it’s not really that much of a dark art. Many classic adventure routes were climbed with a handful of slings and a pair of tennis shoes, so if in doubt, just consider where you would climb if you didn’t feel like dying and hexes were the most cutting edge equipment you owned.

Scouting
It can be time-consuming, but scouting out approaches and descents can be a real game-changer. I owe the success of many routes to this prior preparation, not least of which was Epinephrine in Red Rock Canyon where 90% of the epics result from descending one gully too soon.

Downclimbing
9 out of 10 wild-eyed idiots on the Beerwah Tourist Track would agree that downclimbing is harder than climbing. I used to offer assistance, but there are too many these days, so I just leave them to battle the polished slabs with nothing but slick-soled Nike’s and the fear of God. Downclimbing is a rarely practiced skill, but it can mean the difference between committing to an unprotected thrill zone and finding a more sane alternative a few metres down. Mark Twight reckons that downclimbing to regroup and figure out better alternatives is rarely a bad choice, and if Mark Twight says it, then it is so.

Belay Efficiency
Nothing saps time on long routes faster than lazy belaying systems. Use the time wisely to stack ropes, sort gear and scoff down a ClifBar. Oh, and belay. Don’t forget to belay.

Experience

There is no substitute for experience in adventure climbing, but this experience is sometimes hard won. Set the bar low when embarking on an adventure climbing career, being judicious with route choice and eking out the lessons as they present themselves.

Of particular importance is the global phenomenon of grade inflation. Old school routes have old school grades, so like we say on Tibrogargan, an 11 might be an 11, or it might be 17R. Proceed with caution.

One should also develop a fine appreciation for rock quality and a penchant for choss wrangling. Although it is not an adventure crag, one plucky young leader learned the power of camming forces when he made a questionable placement behind the Magic Block on Odin at Frog Buttress. “Don’t worry, it’s been there for years,” the guidebook opined, but sadly the Magic Block is now in just as many pieces as the belayer’s limbs. Detached blocks, expanding flakes, exfoliating layers and creaky plates will all be observed (and ideally bypassed) on adventurous routes. Keep an eye out for them!

barney adventure climbing
We were thankful that our adventure chops kept us alive on the truly frightful Barney Couloir, Mt Barney. It looks pretty chill in this shot, but I assure you it isn’t.

I consider my area of expertise to be South East Queensland, so here is a list of some entry-level adventure routes from that region to start out with. Keep in mind that “entry-level” is not analogous with “safe”, however these are generally mild in comparison to some of the spicy meatballs to be found elsewhere.

  • Black Orpheus, Mt Tibrogargan (Grade 10, 110m) – The quintessential Tibro beginners adventure route with an exposed stemming crux and a heady but easy runout slab to the Zombie Tree.
  • Lhotse Flake, Mt Beerwah(Grade 15, 305m) – 10 pitches of high quality Beerwah slab. Goes mostly on gear with a couple of bolts where necessary.
  • Blabbermouth, Mt Tibrogargan (Grade 16, 195m) – Not very adventurous, but very good! A sensible mix of bolts and gear.
  • Ruby of India, Mt Maroon (Grade 16, 210m) – An eminent SEQ classic which I don’t think is actually that great. Still, it’s got good gear and some fantastic positions.
  • The Martian, Mt Beerwah (Grade 17, 320m) – Another excellent Beerwah slab route with cool water runnels and a moderate headwall crux. Plenty of bolts to supplement bomber gear placements make this a good introduction to long routes. A bit of a soft touch at the grade.

Additional Considerations

Here is some miscellanea from my brain hole which doesn’t necessarily fit into the above categories. Take what you will from these lessons from my experience in the mountains:

Partners
Pick your partners wisely. Climb with others who have the experience to navigate adventurous terrain and the essential skills to perform vertical rescue. Don’t think that just because the grade is low that you can take your gumby mate who still doesn’t know how to tie an alpine butterfly. Remember that seconding can often be as risky as leading and that efficiency in cleaning routes is a vital skill. Remember that different climbers have different levels of risk acceptance, so be clear on your expectations before venturing into the unknown. Most of all, pick a partner who has a high capacity (and even a perverse enjoyment) in suffering.

Experience Levels
Care must be taken in the selection of leaders in various types of terrain. Although it is sometimes difficult to know what a pitch might entail, more experienced leaders should endeavour to lead more serious pitches. On alpine routes, consider the strengths and weaknesses of the party – some leaders might have a higher level of skill on rock, ice, snow or mixed terrain than others.

Chimney action on (or rather in) the mega-classic Epinephrine, Red Rock Canyon

Deliberate Climbing
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Approach pitches with caution, testing suspicious rock before committing weight and force to holds. A light touch is sometimes required and one might need to favour holds which are more solid but less intuitive for movement.

Make your plans known
Let somebody back home know what you’re up to. Include information on location, route, timeframe etc.

Bivouacs
Be prepared for bivvies, both planned and unplanned. Camping out at the base of a route can mean the difference between descending in daylight or at night. Try to get an idea of where potential bivouac sites might exist on route.

Bolts and Pitons
When used sparingly and sensibly, bolts and pitons can allow passage through unprotected segments of otherwise naturally protected routes. Many of the world’s finest adventure routes feature a smattering of bolts for protection, for aid, or for a combination thereof. Yes, pitoncraft may have been banished from Yosemite big walls, but it is still vital in many alpine rock venues across the planet. Hand-drills and hammers, as well as the relevant hardware to bash into the wall, might be considered when opening new routes.

Hauling Packs
On steeper routes, it can sometimes make sense to pack one heavier bag than two light ones and haul it through hard pitches. That said, hauling through roofs, chimneys and across slabs is a real dick drag.

Party Ledges
It’s often unwise to skip the opportunity of a comfortable belay ledge. These generally offer more security and efficiency than a hanging belay. Don’t be afraid to break pitches up to facilitate a better belay.

Simul or Unroped Climbing
When efficiency is key, simulclimbing or unroped climbing can speed the ascent in easy, low consequence terrain. This is common among alpine climbers but often gives rock climbers the heeby jeebies. It must be stated that both these methods have the potential to significantly increase the risk profile and should be used sparingly and with great care. A traction device such as a Petzl Tibloc or Microtraxion can be used to lower the risk of the second pulling the leader from the wall, however it is beyond the scope of this article to explain this technique.

Climbing in Blocks
Some parties prefer to climb in blocks of pitches rather than swinging leads. This can offer the second some mental respite from the rigours of leading. I don’t often use this tactic but it is certainly worth considering, especially if used in conjunction with the tenet of optimising leaders according to experience levels.

Fitness
Adventure climbers don’t often rely on digits of steel and huge reserves of power. Rather, this style demands overall cardiovascular fitness and muscular endurance. Pack fitness and hiking ability also become important in order to reach the cliff feeling fresh and energised.

About to launch into a A-Grade grovel on Torre Principal, Frey

Diversify your skillset
You never really know what an adventure climb will throw at you, so it pays to be versed in many styles of climbing – face, slab, corners, chimneys, aretes and all manner of cracks from fingers to offwidth. Despite being small in stature, I climbed many routes at Frey in Argentina which packed almost all of these features into just about every climb.

Skill Buffer
Adventure climbing is not like projecting a sport route and the dizzy heights are not a place to work new moves. Ideally, an adventure route will be well within the onsight ability of the party, ensuring a buffer of technical skill and some extra go-go juice when the crux has been completed but many pitches remain.

Ryan Siacci, Esq.
September 2020

 

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